W Trek Itinerary: How we did 5 days in Torres del Paine

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This week the Howlanders blog is giving you a first-hand account of our exciting experience hiking the W Trek Route in Torres del Paine, featuring a comprehensive breakdown of the W Trek Itinerary and our experience traveling from Puerto Natales to Perito Moreno. Brought to you by our partner and expert traveler, Javier Moliner (who has traveled to the Chilean Patagonia just for this).

We’ll also be sharing the highs and lows of the W Trek Route,  the best recommendations, tips, and several possible unexpected events that you might also run into. We’d like you to know everything necessary before traveling to the spectacular Chilean Patagonia.

Day 0. Start the W Torres del Paine Route: How to get there (by way of Puerto Natales)

The first stop on the W Torres del Paine route is Puerto Natales, which requires a little bit of a juggle to get to.

Arrival to Puerto Natales

For my trip, I did not catch a flight from Santiago, but instead, crossed the border from El Calafate.

When I went to buy the bus tickets in town, I was informed that there were no longer any available buses (this is where the juggling started). I decided to take an alternative route that passes through Rio Turbio and the Dorotea Pass, to Puerto Natales.

For this reason, I recommend planning your arrival to Puerto Natales in advance and booking a direct ticket. If you follow my advice, in about 3 hours (plus the time it takes to cross the border) you’ll arrive at Puerto Natales without a hitch (or Natales, what the locals call it).

When I got out of the car I was surprised by how windy and cold it was, (this prevents the sun from transmitting the sensation of heat). This would be a precursor for what was waiting for me on the excursion to Torres del Paine. I hadn’t booked anything, so I had nowhere to sleep in Puerto Natales.

So I made my way to a coffee shop (which had Wi-Fi) and before I had even finished my latte, I had already booked my room.

Once I was sure I had a place to sleep, I went straight to the accommodations and left my luggage. I took advantage of the fact that it was early to go for a walk around town and shortly before 6 pm I was impatiently waiting for the briefing to start at the operator’s offices.

Briefing before the route W Torres del Paine

For half an hour they explained how to organize ourselves during the 5 days  we were going to be walking along the W Trek route in Torres del Paine. They gave us all the necessary documents to take the transports, the access to the National Park Torres del Paine and the refugios.

What to bring to Torres del Paine

I returned to my room in Puerto Natales to empty everything I didn’t need in my backpack (yes, they keep it in the lodging) and pack only what is necessary to take to the Torres del Paine trekking. Here’s a quick summary:

• Thermal clothing for the first layer
• Polar
• Good Gore-tex or waterproof clothing
• A pair of cane boots (tall rubber boots that cover up to the knee)
• A pair of sandals (for rest/shower)
• Sunglasses
• A refillable bottle
• Sunscreen

In addition to the obvious: underwear, trekking pants, personal hygiene products, a towel (but the refugios will have these), loose change (just in case).

But try not to carry too much luggage, it’s a 50 mile (71 km) journey and for most of the route of the W Trek you’ll have to carry your backpack on your shoulders, so the more comfortable the better.

At some points on the W Trek route through Torres del Paine, you will find luggage storage facilities, in others, you can leave your backpack at the refuge, such as the day you walk in the Torres Central Refugio and the Mirador Base Torres.

Day 1. Refugio Las Torres central

The next morning I started my journey. The bus leaves at 2:00 pm and takes you to the park entrance, next to the “Las Torres” shelter. It’s a big and comfortable shelter, with a good camping area for those who prefer that option.

After passing by the park access offices, I took another bus that took me to the refuge, where I made myself comfortable. I shared a beer with a French guy my age, who I had just met and together we poured over the W Trek map that they had given us. A little later we had dinner and went to sleep.

Day 2. Refugio Las Torres Central Viewpoint Base Towers (round trip)

I had breakfast on the 7:00 am and before 8:00 am, I was already leaving the shelter, alone, ready to disconnect. The steady falling rain made my solo journey more interesting. Little by little I began to warm up, the sky cleared, and the sun began to shine, and I felt assured that I would have a good view of the landscape from the Las Torres Viewpoint.

The towers of Torres del Paine

The final stretch of the ascent is hard, but there is a luggage center where you can leave your backpack to climb lighter (the path seems almost like a flight of stairs). However, I was encouraged and the atmosphere was very positive, with everyone walking to reach a unique moment.

When you arrive, no matter how many pictures you’ve seen, the towers are surprisingly enormous.

A block of granite that transmits a lot of strength and at its feet a lake that creates a unique postcard, although the sky is more cloudy than I would like, it doesn’t prevent me from seeing the towers.

I took it easy, enjoying the landscape. After taking several pictures, again I took some time to contemplate the landscape and start the descent.

I was very motivated not to stop walking until I passed by the Chilean Refuge, where I ate the lunch that I picked up before leaving the refugio.

What is the weather like in Torres del Paine?

After this point, I checked the weather during the trek to Torres del Paine, and I can summarize it with just one word: ALL. The climate in this area is very variable.

The day started with three layers of clothing and I finished the last xx miles (2 km) wearing short sleeves and carrying the rest in my backpack.

When I arrived at the refuge my plan seemed to be simply perfect. A Hot shower, cold beer (the first one is complimentary), good dinner, and a comfortable bed.

Day 3: Refugio Las Torres to Refugio Francés or Refugio Cuernos

In my case, the refuge to spend the third night on the W Trek route in Torres del Paine was Cuernos Refugio, as Refugio Francés was full. Believe me, it doesn’t really matter which refugio they assign you, they are all great and close.

Today I decided to walk with Thibault, the French guy I met the first day. We were also accompanied by Ty, a guy from the States. After a few minutes, we started talking and enjoying the walk. Just like the previous day, the rain accompanied us for the first few hours and I have one thing to say to inventor of Gore-Tex: thank you!

Lake Nordenskjöld

Much of the day’s route runs along Lake Nordenskjöld, with spectacular views (a landscape similar to that of New Zealand), pictures simply doesn’t do it justice.

The rain did not stop but by that time we remarked how abnormal it seemed, however, at least once every summer there are heavy rains. For my me, it wasn’t a problem because it wasn’t cold (the rain made everything even more natural and fun).

When crossing the river, I realized that it would be impossible to keep my feet dry. As I walked down the road accompanied by a 15-centimeter sheet of water among smiling people, a backpack, and dripping in rainwater, it was at that moment that I appreciated the W Torres del Paine route even more.

I found the reusable water bottle they gave us at the beginning of the tour very useful. It wasn’t very big (luckily it isn’t necessary to carry a lot of water because you can refill it from every big river you cross), and it’s great to take a few minutes to rest and drink cold water directly from the river.

Arrival to Refugio Cuernos

Finally, and after several hours of walking in the rain (without rushing, it has to be said), we arrived at the Cuernos Refugio.

This time the shelter was small and more welcoming, with incredible views. This is also where we were served the best dinner: Patagonian salmon (my vegetarian diet went out the window the moment they told me the vegetarian option and (vegetable omelet) the regular menu (salmon). Sorry, Pachamama!

Day 4: Horn shelter – Mirador Británico (or not) – Paine Grande Lodge.

It rained all through the night. And leaving from the refugio was a bit chaotic: we couldn’t find Ty and so only Thibauld and I walked together. Soon, we met a Brazilian guy and walked together, but not on the route we planned.

We should have climbed to the Mirador Británico, but after taking a look at the W Circuit map we changed it to walk in the rain to the Paine Grande Lodge.

For safety, the climb to the Mirador Británico was cut off besides, the clouds would not have allowed us to see much anyways.

So after a stop at the French Lodge, where my French friend was staying (a pure coincidence), I continued walking.

Soon I met up with Chilean friends I had met on the first day. To be honest, they were tired, sleeping in a campsite, carrying too much weight, and the bad weather had killed their morale, but there they were, like three champions!

The road was easier than other days and without having done the stretch to the Mirador Británico I had subtracted kilometers and unevenness from the route, but the rain made it more fun, difficult,  and to be honest quite cold.

Camping Paine Grande

For the final night I decided to sleep at Camping Paine Grande, and even though you can use the common areas of the Paine Grande campground, I had to use the showers at the campground.

When I arrived, a very nice girl checked me in and took me to my tent.

It was a good North Face tent, with two foam mattresses and a North Face sleeping bag that I didn’t get cold with that night.

After showering and resting in the shelter’s dining room, they began serving dinner. When the rain stopped, the sky cleared, and I could finally see the  surrounding landscape. I prefer not to describe it because I carried a camera for five days on the W Trek route in Torres del Paine.

Day 5: Lodge / Paine Grande Lodge, Glacier Grey, Lake Pehoe, and Puerto Natales

Let’s be honest, sleeping in a tent is not the same. You don’t get the same rest as in a lodge, but well, I still had some energy left.

When I arrived at the lodge’s dining room, where I had left my clothes overnight, I realized that the rain I collected since I left the Cuernos del Paine Lodge was still on my clothes, and especially my boots, which were totally soaked.

Today’s route promised incredible landscapes but it is too demanding to do it with wet feet (I would end up with sores). There is also a tour on Glacier Grey where you can go hiking on the ice, or kayak on Glacier Grey.

But I have to admit, those boots were too wet, so even though I’m not proud but I must admit: I did not walk.

Catamaran on Lake Pehoe

I stayed at the refuge, and took the catamaran Hielos Patagónicos that crosses Lake Pehoé, from Paine Grande Lodge to Pudeto.

Upon arrival, I took the first bus that took me straight to Puerto Natales. I walked to my accommodation (since I hadn’t walked to Glacier Grey. At least I had to clear my conscience by walking for 20 minutes, it didn’t seem like a bad plan, and I saved myself 2,000 pesos from the cabride).

Where to eat in Puerto Natales

At the time I arrived at my hostel, I picked up my clothes and the remaining luggage I left. They told me where the laundry was in Puerto Natales; the closest one was Catch Laundry. They also told me where to eat: Restaurante el Bote. Good food at a good price biut with slightly expensive wines, as is tradition in Chile.

My first dinner was at El Boliche, homemade food at a good price.

Where to sleep in Puerto Natales

There are many accommodations in Puerto Natales. None of them are as cheap as other areas of Chile or in Argentinean Patagonia, but I recommend booking at the hostel I stayed in (which I would qualify more as a hotel), Hostal de Los Castillos.

A charming place, small houses,with each one different and tastefully decorated. Good heating, comfortable beds, and above all, clean!

I slept like a baby, but not before buying my bus ticket to El Calafate (from there I would take another bus to El Chalten). Yes, I missed Grey Glacier, but in El Calafate, the Perito Moreno Glacier was waiting for me.

From the W Trek route through Torres del Paine, I will always have unique memories. I hope to revisit as soon as possible.

Have a good trip! (and I wish you good weather).