Hike in Torres del Paine: my experience doing the W Circuit

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Hello 👋, my name is Annia and I am going to tell you about my experience doing the most famous hike in Torres del Paine. We started our adventure from El Calafate (Argentina) and enjoyed breathtaking landscapes, challenging trails and moments of connection with nature. In the heart of Chilean Patagonia we hiked the famous W Circuit, which runs through the southern part of Torres del Paine National Park. Every day we enjoyed the views and lived new experiences. At night, we rested in the cozy Refugios that the park offers in the different Sectors for each of the stages of the circuit. In this post I will tell you about our experience in what is considered the eighth wonder of the world.

Preparation and recommendations for the W Circuit

To do the Trek it is necessary to be in good physical shape and to have some experience in trekking routes. Since we booked the plane tickets a few months before, we already started to prepare ourselves to complete the W route successfully: gym sessions, long walks and some mountain routes in the area. In our case, just a few weeks before we did the Camino de Santiago – Portuguese way along the coast (in Spain). Although there were more kilometers (127km in 6 days), the difficulty was less because it was a route that takes place between villages and trails on a flatter terrain. Still it was definitely a good training and another great experience.

We also had to make travel arrangements and think about our luggage. What were we going to take with us? It was important to take into account the changeable weather in Torres del Paine so we didn’t forget any piece of clothing to avoid getting cold or wet during our hike. We also had to pay attention to the weight of the backpack since we were going to have to carry it during the whole route. It is better to take only what is strictly necessary for the trek. Taking into account our itinerary and the characteristics of Patagonia, we gradually filled the backpack:

• First layer of clothing (thermal T-shirts)
• Second layer (polar)
• Third layer (waterproof jacket)
• Comfortable hiking pants
• Mountain boots
• Spare waterproof footwear
• Cap and neckerchief
• Trekking poles
• Sunglasses
• Sunscreen
• Toiletries
• Flashlight
• Additional cell phone battery
• Camera
• And the most important thing: the passport!

First day of the hike: from El Calafate to Torres del Paine National Park

That morning we woke up in El Calafate (Argentina) and, after traveling 350 km, we arrived in Chile at noon. We were at Portería Laguna Amarga showing our tickets to access the park. We had arrived with a full day tour that we had to finish halfway because our adventure continued within the National Park. Going back to Argentina was not an option because… the W circuit was waiting for us!

At the Laguna Amarga porter’s lodge there were some park rangers, who gave us indications about the schedules and the departure point of the Las Torres Bus. This bus goes to the Welcome Center, costs 4,500 ARS and they only accept cash. Our excursion with Howlanders included all transfers, so we already had the ticket and just had to show it to move on.

As soon as we arrived at the Welcome Center we were greeted by a staff member and given directions to our next destination: the Chilean Sector. They always ask you if you are coming for the day or if you are staying in the Central or Chilean Sector that night. Depending on your answer they will show you the way and tell you how long it takes. The Central Sector is very close, so if you stay in this sector you won’t have to walk very far the first day. On the other hand, the Chilean Sector is almost 6 km away, a trek that lasts about 2 hours.

Touring the Chilean Sector

We started walking towards the Chilean sector and could not believe we were finally there. We were starting this hike through Torres del Paine that was going to last a total of 5 days. The trail was quiet and the views were breathtaking. The beginning of the trail was easy, the terrain was flat until we reached a bridge. From there the ascent to Base Torres began and the trail became steep, we were climbing the mountain to have the best views of the three granite towers that give name to this incredible National Park!

That day it was very windy in Torres del Paine. When we passed through Paso de Los Vientos (Passage of the Winds) I thought it was the most appropriate name for that stretch. The strength and speed of the wind were impressive.

A little more walking and we arrived at the Chilean Sector campsite. We were very happy to finally arrive and be able to rest. I had not imagined arriving at such a cozy and beautiful place. All made of wood, with a fireplace, people at the tables talking, eating, playing board games…

We proceeded to check in at the front desk and had to show our passports and immigration cards. We were assigned a tent number and were informed of the times for dinner (7pm), breakfast (from 7-9am) and departure (9am). Lastly and most importantly, we were given a ticket to redeem for a welcome drink. We certainly felt like leaving our backpacks behind and enjoying the ambiance of the place.

Chilean Sector Camping

In the Chilean Sector there is only camping type accommodation, as it is a small site and there is not enough space for other types of rooms. The tents are “safari” type: raised off the ground with a ladder. They are nicely laid out in the forest, right next to the lodge and with stunning views. The tent was already set up on our arrival, with cushions and sleeping bags. We found it very spacious (we put inside our trekking backpacks, we were 2 people and we still had plenty of space). The bathrooms are located nearby, in the same hut where the dining room and reception are, and have hot water 24 hours a day.

That night we had pumpkin soup, salmon with potatoes and sponge cake for dessert. I have to say that I was impressed with the quality and presentation of the dishes, very elaborate and delicious. My mother does not like salmon so they served her a steak instead (it looked delicious). During check-in they informed us about the menu and told us they could offer us something different if it wasn’t ok. I thought it was a nice touch as it was the only place where they did it.

During dinner we chatted with other travelers who were sitting next to us, sharing our experiences. We called it a day, we were tired and had to rest well for the next day’s route. That night the wind was blowing hard. Although we were not cold, we could hear the noise of the wind against the tent and the movement of the trees (which even woke me up on occasion).

Route map

Day 2: from the Chilean Sector to the Central Sector

The next morning the weather forecast was bad, it was very foggy and we could not see the mountain peaks from the viewpoint. We decided to have breakfast first: there was juice, coffee, bread, sausage, butter and jam, cereal and fruit. In order to continue our hike in Torres del Paine we had to gather our strength!

We left the tent at 9 am, picked up our lunch-box and decided to wait a while for the weather to improve. After talking to the staff there, they told us that unfortunately due to the fog we were not going to be able to enjoy the views at Base Torres. For this reason we decided to return directly to the Central Sector.

We started the route with enthusiasm, as the scenery was spectacular and the granite towers can be seen from different points of the park. Today we had to do the same route as the previous day, but this time downhill.

Central Sector Lodge

We arrived in the Central Sector and tonight we were staying at “Refugio Sector Central”. We were assigned two bunk beds in a shared room for 6 people with a huge window overlooking the mountain. Each bed has an assigned locker where you can leave your backpack and belongings. The beds were set up with sleeping bags. Each had its own reading light, a small table and USB access to charge your cell phone (very useful).

The sky had cleared and the sun was out, so we went out to the terrace to eat our lunch-box. It included a piece of fruit, a sandwich, a bar, a chocolate bar and nuts. Then we went to discover the facilities. Central Sector is very large, with a spacious dining room and bar offering incredible views. It also has common rest areas where you can sit comfortably to read or chat. The surroundings are also very nice to walk around and enjoy the views.

All the staff was very pleasant, so we spent the evening chatting, having a drink and enjoying the privileged environment that surrounded us. In the dining room they had a blackboard where they wrote down the menu for that night. Salmon was again the main course, but this time with mashed potatoes. Everything was so delicious that I did not mind repeating (although my mother asked for something different and there was no problem, you just have to communicate it in time to a member of the staff so the food is ready at dinner time).

That night I slept more comfortably and warmly. I appreciated the convenience of having the bathrooms nearby, as it makes it more comfortable to shower and be able to go whenever you want without going out in the cold.

Route map

Day 3: from the Central Sector to the French Sector

On the third day, we followed the same routine as the previous day: gather strength at breakfast, pick up our lunch-box and leave the room. We set off for the route that awaited us, 17 km from the Central Sector to the French Sector. The sun was out and it was a beautiful day!

I loved this stage, as we walked along the Nordenskjöld Lake, which has a very intense and beautiful turquoise blue color. Undoubtedly, the magnitude of the landscape that Torres del Paine offers throughout the hike is worth contemplating. Also during this route we crossed a hanging bridge and even a part of the route took us through the stones that are next to the shore of the lake.

Suddenly we saw some very nice cabins on the mountain, we had reached the Cuernos Sector! As it was October, the refuge was closed (they open in November), but we still found staff in the area. They gave us water and allowed us to go to the bathroom. We stopped at the tables in the outdoor area to rest and eat something before continuing with the hike. Although I did not have the opportunity to see the inside of Cuernos, I found it to be a very cozy place. This area offers private lodging in wooden cabins in a unique setting overlooking the river and the Cuernos Massif.

French Sector Camping

We walked 3 km more and arrived at the French Sector, where we would spend the night in Camping. The truth is that this was the Sector that I liked the least due to its distribution. The campsite was very big and one of the staff accompanied us to our tent. He had to use a map to locate and find the number, since the layout is a bit confusing. Also, the bathrooms were far away on a sloping road, which I didn’t find comfortable. If you get up in the middle of the night it can be a bit dangerous to access them….. remember to bring a flashlight!

If you stay at Refugio you may have a very different experience. The beds are in very unique and beautiful igloos located in front of the lake, next to the dining room where the meals are served.

The dining room in this sector is very small, so they serve meals in shifts. During check-in they assign you a schedule, give you the meal vouchers and mention that it is very important to arrive on time. My recommendation is to arrive only five minutes early, because while the tables are being prepared you have to wait standing. Although getting to the dining room is a bit difficult (there are two steep slopes), once you arrive the views of the lake are breathtaking. We were lucky enough to have dinner and breakfast in the seats by the window (the staff assigns you seating on a first come, first served basis and according to group size). This area also has another separate bar that is located halfway between the Refugio and the campsite. There are also some footbridges you can walk along and enjoy the views.

Route map

Fourth day: from the French Sector to Paine Grande

Today it was our turn to hike from the French Sector to Paine Grande. It was raining when we woke up and the rain did not stop all morning. We put on our raincoats and set off. Unfortunately, the weather did not allow us to climb to the Mirador Francés (French Viewpoint), so we continued our way to the Refugio Paine Grande.

During this stage you walk through the forest. Many of the trees that offered the landscape lay “dead”, as the logs were dry and without leaves. This is due to the fire that occurred in 2011, which affected about 17,000 hectares of the park.

Even so, we found it to be a very cool and unique route that takes you over several footbridges that cross rivers. The signs were guiding us to our destination. When you get to Paine Grande you find a large and beautiful esplanade located in front of Lake Pehoé.

Paine Grande Lodge

The Refugio is very large and cozy, with a large dining room and many common areas to relax. We were very lucky and were assigned a private room for both of us. As soon as we opened the door we could see a group of guanacos eating grass from our window. I was very excited and happy with the views, as they were very close! This time the beds were made up with sheets and very comfortable. We were grateful to rest without a sleeping bag this night.

During check-in we were informed that hot water would be available until 10 pm, so it is advisable to take a shower before nightfall. The radiators in the rooms were turned on at 5 pm. In the meantime, to warm up we went to one of the many common areas of the Refugio where the ground fire had just been lit. In this room there were armchairs, a sofa, board games and even a sort of coat rack so you could hang your clothes to dry. We had a glass of wine that we had previously redeemed with our welcome voucher.

As for the Camping, in this sector you will find traditional tents mounted on the ground with wooden structures. This area was very windy, so staying in Camping seemed much harder than in other sectors.

Last night in Torres del Paine

In the afternoon the sun came out and with it the rainbow, how beautiful! We immortalized the moment with a photo. If you do this hike, it is important to know that in Torres del Paine the weather is very variable. There can be 4 seasons in the same day, going from rain and cold to sun and heat, almost always accompanied with some wind. It is very important to be prepared with the appropriate clothing.

At 7 pm dinner started and this time it was buffet style. There was a lot of variety and you could repeat: soup, lentils, salads, vegetables, rice, pasta, beans…. The main course was meat and you had two options to choose from. For dessert there was a cooler with three different types of sweets, chocolate or caramel cups and a fruit option. After the tiredness of walking during the day, we appreciated the possibility of eating what you wanted and how much you wanted.

It was our last night and the next day we had to leave the Park to travel to Puerto Natales, the nearest town. We fell asleep soon.

Route map

Fifth and last day: from Paine Grande to Puerto Natales

It was our last day of our hike in Torres del Paine. We woke up early and had breakfast, which was also buffet style. We picked up the lunch-box and left the room at 9 am, which was the departure time.

Today we had the opportunity to visit Mirador Grey but it was also raining, windy and cloudy. The weather, along with tiredness, made us decide to enjoy the scenery of the area and leave the park a little earlier than planned.

In front of the Refugio is the boarding area where the catamaran that takes you to Pudeto departs. There were three departure times during the day: at 9:20 am, at 11:20 am and one in the evening at 6:30 pm. We had the ticket for the afternoon boat but decided to leave in the morning. The catamaran staff was very friendly and did not give us any problems with the change.

For half an hour we traveled almost 10 km along the lake until we reached our destination, contemplating the views and saying goodbye to this magnificent place that we were sure we would never forget. Once on land we entered the cozy cafeteria of Pudeto, where we had a coffee while waiting for the bus that would take us to Puerto Natales. We had the afternoon schedule, but we asked the driver and there were free spaces on the next departure. Once again, we had no problem making the schedule change.

Bus from Pudeto to Puerto Natales

For 2 hours we traveled almost 140 km by bus until we arrived at the Puerto Natales railway terminal. Upon arrival we took a cab (they have a fixed rate for any transfer in the area for 2500 CLP) that took us to our accommodation: Hostal Factoria. Undoubtedly a highly recommended place, located next to the waterfront, near the main square and the center of the town. It has private and shared rooms, very complete breakfasts and excellent customer service.

After settling in we decided to go out to eat and ended up at Asador Patagónico. We ate wonderfully and at a very good price. Then we went to walk around the town and we found it very authentic, as it was not so touristy and we met local people and artisan stores. In the afternoon we took the opportunity to walk around, buy some souvenirs, discover the waterfront and relax in this quiet little town.

Final thoughts about Torres del Paine hike

Over the course of five days we faced challenging routes, enjoyed unique landscapes and shared moments with other travelers in the iconic lodges the park offers. Despite the vagaries of the weather, at each stage we enjoyed the experience and the beauty of the surroundings. This hike through Torres del Paine has left us with unforgettable memories and inspired us to continue exploring and connecting with nature.

This is how we lived our experience in Chilean Patagonia doing the W Circuit. I hope you liked it and I encourage you to undertake this unique adventure in the impressive Torres del Paine National Park. Here are all the options you have to visit it and a page to learn more details about your accommodations.